"Why not my size?" Sizing as a barrier to innovation in body jewelry

September 08, 2015 0 Comments

The demand for jewelry to adorn stretched piercings has never been higher. With that demand comes a marketplace hungry for new work and innovation, both aesthetically and technically. I believe the largest hinderance to that progress is the immense number of sizes at which people expect to be able to obtain similar styles.

T-shirt companies work in an average of XS-XL with the occasional larger sizes. If you make necklaces, your only real concern is chain length. If you make rings, you’re primarily working with as many sizes as there are fingers plus half sizes, but it’s likely that someone is there to try on that piece for fit. Shoe companies have a slightly larger range.

My business regularly produces jewelry in about 50 sizes with a full range of over 70, and we custom make a nearly unlimited number of in-between sizes and combinations of wearing length and flare size. Our choice, however limiting, is to do it by hand one at a time because we believe there is value to the customer, maker, and to society in hand work.

I regularly get asked why a design originally conceived for and most suitable for a size like 3mm is not available at 16mm, or why an inlay or carved design that is most aesthetically pleasing at 19mm (or larger) cannot be made at 5mm. I have had people get mad at me for refusing to make a style that I did not believe would do justice to the design or my company at a drastically smaller or larger size. I am happy to accommodate requests and work with anyone to achieve their body modification goals, but as a maker it is my job to understand what will or will not work for a given material or design and make a call that is best for my business and the customer.

This tension between market demand and the realities of both the materials we use (all natural) and the designs we carry is a force for innovation but also a serious barrier to profitability and the continued long term success of business in this market. If we introduce a carved design, it is necessary to establish a range of sizes in which it will work and stock them all. The nature of natural materials is such that there is always a certain amount of loss from warping/cracking/things going mis-sized over time. If we introduce an inlay style, we have two production options. The first option is to create a size of inlay for each and every size of jewelry available, which is just not economically feasible. The alternative is to group ranges of sizes to a size of inlay with the understanding that each size will look slightly different due to the space around the inlay, which is what we do. Unfortunately, some customers are not comfortable with that variability and expect an exact aesthetic.  Because we hardware set all of our inlay projects without glue, it has been necessary to spend considerable time engineering different ways of achieving the same goal in different sizes. We love the challenge, but this is an example of time and dollars that many customers may not understand is happening behind the scenes. In fact, many of our smaller sizes cost us more to make than the same item at a larger size because they are considerably more time consuming and complex, but we’d have a hard time convincing someone to pay more for something that is cheaper at a much larger size.

As far as material limitations, many people are unaware that horn, bone and antler only grow so large, or that reliably obtaining dry wood in very large sizes that will not shrink or split shortly after production is a near impossibility. Materials with pattern of course look drastically different in smaller sizes where only a tiny portion shows, and there are stones that occur in layers or nodules that simply will not work for larger sizes.

What are the solutions to these problems? Short of limiting sizing to popular sizes or specializing in a specific size range or style of jewelry (ie, hanging styles in small sizes, weights, only plugs, etc) there really aren’t many options. With growing international demand for body adornment jewelry and different measurement systems and methods for stretching, limiting output to a niche within the market could drastically limit potential profitability for a business.

For Onetribe it has been a matter of working with our customers as closely as possible and establishing a relationship and dialogue that allows us to create as much jewelry as possible in a made-to-order or custom fashion. This ensures that customers get jewelry that fits and that we have the largest possible range of sizes available, but it comes at a cost. The production time involved in customization and the time involved in customer correspondence both result in considerably higher overhead, which of course limits profitability. We know that other independent makers in our industry have chosen the same route and of course face the same barriers, and what’s more, we’re all doing it while competing with lower quality mass produced items. For many of us, it is a labor of love and we will continue to do it as long as we can feed our families.

So what’s the point of this? Well, if you are a fellow maker, you may have been thinking this as well and I just want to tell you that we are right there with you. If you are a customer, you now know more than you did about my business and the issues facing small maker businesses in the body adornment market. What should you do with that information? Love your favorite makers and know that the feeling is mutual, and just understand that you are the reason we do this. Despite the difficulties, our joy comes from the process and from seeing you truly happy with your body adornment journey. I do have a request though: please be understanding if there are size limitations to a particular item, and if we say something is one of a kind, please don’t tell us you would have bought it if it was in your size. Instead, contact the maker directly and start a proactive dialogue about receiving something that will be uniquely yours.

Jared Karnes, Onetribe




Also in Content

Holiday 2018 Shipping and Closure Info

December 11, 2018 0 Comments

I am currently working hard to get all pending orders for standard made-to-order (non-custom) jewelry that have come in through the website finished and shipped in the days leading up to my holiday closure on Friday 12/21. This includes orders from the Holiday Guaranteed collection on my site placed up until Monday 12/17. 

After 12/17 I can guarantee shipment of orders for in stock and ready to ship jewelry until the afternoon of 12/21 when the last mail shipment goes out. Orders for made-to-order or custom jewelry not included in the "Holiday Guaranteed" section of the website will not begin shipping until after 1/1.

As of today Tuesday 12/11, I strongly suggest Priority or Express mail service to ensure any orders that are gifts or otherwise needed for Christmas to be delivered on time. I guarantee that we'll get it in the mail, but I can't control the shipping time.

My workshop will be closed from 12/21 to Tuesday 1/1 so I can rest my hands and spend time with my family. I may be in the workshop cleaning or prototyping but nothing will ship during this time. Correspondence will happen periodically, just be patient.

I'll be back in the workshop making jewelry and getting on with business as usual the week of 1/1/19. Thanks to you this business is now 16 years old. I appreciate your support. Have a safe and happy holiday!

Jared Karnes, Owner/Jeweler

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Submit your wear photos for $$!

December 07, 2018 0 Comments

Over the years I have made some fantastic ear weights, one at a time for one customer at a time, and promptly sent them off to homes without the ability to show them in their natural environment - being worn by truly unique people!

Some of the pieces I make have unusual insertion methods (Ghost in the Shell) or wearing surfaces that can be difficult to describe (iona) but are easy to show in a photo. I want to gather some beautiful photos of my customers showing off how you incorporate my work into your one of a kind style. As thanks, I would like to offer you $30 in credit toward your next order and a chance to win $100 in credit toward your next set of handmade ear weights.

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Alchemy with Stone: Doublets and Triplets

August 26, 2018 0 Comments

I've been experimenting with a new process that allows me to create unique, one of a kind gemstones with a modern aesthetic that embraces the distinctive color and light play characteristics of each stone. These gems are combinations of multiple stones laminated together and are named for the number of layers of stone in the completed piece. Two layers is a doublet, and three is called a triplet.

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Sizing Chart
Size chart includes the sizes we make, and default flare size & wearing lengths.
We are happy to make pieces in odd sizes or with custom flares or wearing lengths.
Jewelry Size Flare Size Wearing Length
1.0mm (18g) 1-1.5mm 9mm
1.3mm (16g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
1.5mm (14g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
2.0mm (12g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
2.5mm (10g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
3.0mm (8g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
4.0mm (6g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
5.0mm (4g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
6.0mm
1-1.5mm
9mm
6.5mm (2g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
7.0mm (1g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
8.0mm (0g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
9.0mm (00g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
10mm
1-1.5mm
10mm
11mm (7/16")
1-1.5mm
10mm
12mm
1-1.5mm
10mm
13mm (1/2")
1-1.5mm
10mm
14mm (9/16")
1-1.5mm
10mm
15mm
1-1.5mm
10mm
16mm (5/8")
1-1.5mm
10mm
17mm (11/16")
1-1.5mm
10mm
18mm
1-1.5mm
10mm
19mm (3/4")
1-1.5mm
11mm
20mm (13/16")
1-1.5mm
11mm
21mm
1-1.5mm
11mm
22mm (7/8")
1-1.5mm
11mm
23mm
1-1.5mm
11mm
24mm (15/16")
1-1.5mm
11mm
25mm
1-1.5mm
11mm
26mm (1")
1-1.5mm
11mm
27mm (1 1/16")
1-1.5mm
12mm
28mm
1-1.5mm
12mm
29mm (1 1/8")
1-1.5mm
12mm
30mm (1 3/16")
1-1.5mm
12mm
31mm
1-1.5mm
12mm
32mm (1 1/4")
1-1.5mm
12mm
33mm (1 5/16")
1-1.5mm
12mm
34mm
1-1.5mm
12mm
35mm (1 3/8") 
1-1.5mm
12mm
36mm
1-1.5mm
12mm
37mm (1 7/16")
1-1.5mm
12mm
38mm (1 1/2") 1.5-2mm 13mm
39mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
40mm (1 9/16")
1.5-2mm
13mm
41mm (1 5/8")
1.5-2mm
13mm
42mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
43mm (1 11/16")
1.5-2mm
13mm
44mm (1 3/4")
1.5-2mm
13mm
45mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
46mm (1 13/16")
1.5-2mm
13mm
47mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
48mm (1 7/8")
1.5-2mm
13mm
49mm (1 15/16")
1.5-2mm
13mm
50mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
51mm (2")
1.5-2mm
13mm

Wearing length is the area of the jewelry that fits inside your piercing. 

Overall length (sometimes confused with wearing length) is the total measurement of the jewelry from face to face, including any additional flare or face area.

Diagram of jewelry styles with wearing length marked in green and overall length marked in red.

1. Flat face double flared plug. Wearing length is measured from the inside of the flare edges. Overall length is measured from face to face.

2. Convex face double flared plug. Wearing length is measured from the inside of the flare edges. Overal length is measured from face to face.

3. Flat face double flared plug with flat flares. Wearing length is measured from inside the flare edges (the piercing cannot rest on the flat flare areas). Overall length is measured face to face.

4. Trumpet flare style plug. The dotted line denotes where the wearing surface ends on the front, because the larger portion of the slope cannot fit inside the piercing. Wearing surface is measured from inside the rear flare edge to the area on the front flare with the same diameter measurement. Overall length is measured from face to face.

5. Sloped single flare plug. Wearing length is measured from where the slope of the flare ends to the end of the plug. Overall length is measured from face to face.

6. Top-hat style single flare with convex face. Wearing length is measured from the inside flare corner to the end of the plug. Overall length is measured from face to face.

7. Top-hat style single flare with curved rear. Wearing length is measured from the inside flare corner to the beginning of the curve (the piercing cannot rest on the slope). Overall length is measured from face to face.

8. Top-hat style single flare with groove for an o-ring. Wearing length is measured from the inside flare corner to the groove (the piercing cannot rest on the groove). Overall length is measured from face to face.

9. Labret (round or oval) with a standard concave t-back. Wearing length is measured from where the wearing shaft meets the wing to the end of the flat portion (the piercing cannot rest on the slope).

Overall length is always longer than the wearing surface because it includes other sections of the jewelry that do not rest inside the piercing. If you are ordering a piece of jewerly and you specify an overall length instead of a wearing length, your jewelry will not fit properly. Order using "overall length" at your own risk. Knowing your ideal wearing length, which can change as you stretch your piercings, ensures you're able to order jewelry that will fit well from every vendor, every time.