Learn to wrap your ear weights for comfort and safety

September 08, 2015 0 Comments

For several years now I have been wrapping the wearable surface of my metal ear weights in natural thread. I do this because my ears do not care for metals like brass, and because I find that after the thread softens from some wear, they become much more comfortable than bare metal alone.

My favorite antique brass weights are a pair of Iban Dayak 'spinning tops' or what are commonly referred to as 'pear weights'. They are over 100 years old, extremely heavy, and I love the patina but I do not want my ears touching the metal. Here they are below with a cotton thread wrap that has seen its way around the world a few times during my travels. Obviously, you will need to rewrap them periodically because the moisture from your lobes will eventually cause them to discolor and the metal patina will start to creep through.



I am a nerd for processes, and although many people consider it to be wasting time, I really enjoy spending time doing repetitive tasks and really paying attention to them. Over the years I have tried a few different methods of wrapping, some messier than others, and I've settled on what I believe to be a method that is pretty easy once you get the hang of it. It tidies up nice, too. It's shown below in several simple steps.

We'll start with a fresh pair of reproduction weights of the same style as above and some nice soft bamboo fiber string. Start by creating a loop that points in the direction you'll be wrapping from. Because the opening of these weights faces to the right in this photo, that is the direction the loop is pointed. Leave a small amount of string from one end of the loop hanging toward the rear.



This next step is the most difficult, especially if you have fat fingers like me. Pinch down at the very end of your loop and start wrapping string around the wearing surface, covering the loop. The difficulty lies in wrapping the area right where you are pinching. It is imperative that you make sure that these first wraps are snug (but not tight) and that your wrapping doesn't come loose from this end. You'll see at the end why if this is too tight, the entire process will have been in vain and the last steps will not work.



Continue wrapping snugly (but not tightly) until you reach the length of wrapped area you require. These weights have a small hole so I only wrapped one layer (make sure you don't fill up the area where your lobe is supposed to rest inside the body of the weight) but you could use thinner string and do multiple layers. Just make sure the end of your string ends up back on the loop end for the next step.



Insert the end of your string through the loop as shown. You'll notice my loop has twisted in this photo - make sure yours is still flat and not twisted. The twist will make the next step harder.



Gently but firmly pull the opposite loose end of your string to tighten your loop. The loop will first shrink and then start to draw the other end of your string under your wraps. At this point, if you have wrapped to tightly, your string may break or it may just get stuck. At the right tightness, you will feel some resistance but should not have to pull too hard to make this happen.



Trim and tuck in your rear string and then your front string. I use the end of a blunt pocket knife for this. You want something that will slide underneath your wraps but that will not damage the string.



Your completed wrap should look like this. The entire wrap should be just loose enough that you can arrange the individual threads with a fingernail and tidy them up.



Your weights now have a bit of individuality to them, and will be more comfortable and healthier for wear. Enjoy!




Also in Content

Holiday 2018 Shipping and Closure Info

December 11, 2018 0 Comments

I am currently working hard to get all pending orders for standard made-to-order (non-custom) jewelry that have come in through the website finished and shipped in the days leading up to my holiday closure on Friday 12/21. This includes orders from the Holiday Guaranteed collection on my site placed up until Monday 12/17. 

After 12/17 I can guarantee shipment of orders for in stock and ready to ship jewelry until the afternoon of 12/21 when the last mail shipment goes out. Orders for made-to-order or custom jewelry not included in the "Holiday Guaranteed" section of the website will not begin shipping until after 1/1.

As of today Tuesday 12/11, I strongly suggest Priority or Express mail service to ensure any orders that are gifts or otherwise needed for Christmas to be delivered on time. I guarantee that we'll get it in the mail, but I can't control the shipping time.

My workshop will be closed from 12/21 to Tuesday 1/1 so I can rest my hands and spend time with my family. I may be in the workshop cleaning or prototyping but nothing will ship during this time. Correspondence will happen periodically, just be patient.

I'll be back in the workshop making jewelry and getting on with business as usual the week of 1/1/19. Thanks to you this business is now 16 years old. I appreciate your support. Have a safe and happy holiday!

Jared Karnes, Owner/Jeweler

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Submit your wear photos for $$!

December 07, 2018 0 Comments

Over the years I have made some fantastic ear weights, one at a time for one customer at a time, and promptly sent them off to homes without the ability to show them in their natural environment - being worn by truly unique people!

Some of the pieces I make have unusual insertion methods (Ghost in the Shell) or wearing surfaces that can be difficult to describe (iona) but are easy to show in a photo. I want to gather some beautiful photos of my customers showing off how you incorporate my work into your one of a kind style. As thanks, I would like to offer you $30 in credit toward your next order and a chance to win $100 in credit toward your next set of handmade ear weights.

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Alchemy with Stone: Doublets and Triplets

August 26, 2018 0 Comments

I've been experimenting with a new process that allows me to create unique, one of a kind gemstones with a modern aesthetic that embraces the distinctive color and light play characteristics of each stone. These gems are combinations of multiple stones laminated together and are named for the number of layers of stone in the completed piece. Two layers is a doublet, and three is called a triplet.

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Sizing Chart
Size chart includes the sizes we make, and default flare size & wearing lengths.
We are happy to make pieces in odd sizes or with custom flares or wearing lengths.
Jewelry Size Flare Size Wearing Length
1.0mm (18g) 1-1.5mm 9mm
1.3mm (16g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
1.5mm (14g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
2.0mm (12g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
2.5mm (10g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
3.0mm (8g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
4.0mm (6g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
5.0mm (4g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
6.0mm
1-1.5mm
9mm
6.5mm (2g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
7.0mm (1g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
8.0mm (0g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
9.0mm (00g)
1-1.5mm
9mm
10mm
1-1.5mm
10mm
11mm (7/16")
1-1.5mm
10mm
12mm
1-1.5mm
10mm
13mm (1/2")
1-1.5mm
10mm
14mm (9/16")
1-1.5mm
10mm
15mm
1-1.5mm
10mm
16mm (5/8")
1-1.5mm
10mm
17mm (11/16")
1-1.5mm
10mm
18mm
1-1.5mm
10mm
19mm (3/4")
1-1.5mm
11mm
20mm (13/16")
1-1.5mm
11mm
21mm
1-1.5mm
11mm
22mm (7/8")
1-1.5mm
11mm
23mm
1-1.5mm
11mm
24mm (15/16")
1-1.5mm
11mm
25mm
1-1.5mm
11mm
26mm (1")
1-1.5mm
11mm
27mm (1 1/16")
1-1.5mm
12mm
28mm
1-1.5mm
12mm
29mm (1 1/8")
1-1.5mm
12mm
30mm (1 3/16")
1-1.5mm
12mm
31mm
1-1.5mm
12mm
32mm (1 1/4")
1-1.5mm
12mm
33mm (1 5/16")
1-1.5mm
12mm
34mm
1-1.5mm
12mm
35mm (1 3/8") 
1-1.5mm
12mm
36mm
1-1.5mm
12mm
37mm (1 7/16")
1-1.5mm
12mm
38mm (1 1/2") 1.5-2mm 13mm
39mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
40mm (1 9/16")
1.5-2mm
13mm
41mm (1 5/8")
1.5-2mm
13mm
42mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
43mm (1 11/16")
1.5-2mm
13mm
44mm (1 3/4")
1.5-2mm
13mm
45mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
46mm (1 13/16")
1.5-2mm
13mm
47mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
48mm (1 7/8")
1.5-2mm
13mm
49mm (1 15/16")
1.5-2mm
13mm
50mm
1.5-2mm
13mm
51mm (2")
1.5-2mm
13mm

Wearing length is the area of the jewelry that fits inside your piercing. 

Overall length (sometimes confused with wearing length) is the total measurement of the jewelry from face to face, including any additional flare or face area.

Diagram of jewelry styles with wearing length marked in green and overall length marked in red.

1. Flat face double flared plug. Wearing length is measured from the inside of the flare edges. Overall length is measured from face to face.

2. Convex face double flared plug. Wearing length is measured from the inside of the flare edges. Overal length is measured from face to face.

3. Flat face double flared plug with flat flares. Wearing length is measured from inside the flare edges (the piercing cannot rest on the flat flare areas). Overall length is measured face to face.

4. Trumpet flare style plug. The dotted line denotes where the wearing surface ends on the front, because the larger portion of the slope cannot fit inside the piercing. Wearing surface is measured from inside the rear flare edge to the area on the front flare with the same diameter measurement. Overall length is measured from face to face.

5. Sloped single flare plug. Wearing length is measured from where the slope of the flare ends to the end of the plug. Overall length is measured from face to face.

6. Top-hat style single flare with convex face. Wearing length is measured from the inside flare corner to the end of the plug. Overall length is measured from face to face.

7. Top-hat style single flare with curved rear. Wearing length is measured from the inside flare corner to the beginning of the curve (the piercing cannot rest on the slope). Overall length is measured from face to face.

8. Top-hat style single flare with groove for an o-ring. Wearing length is measured from the inside flare corner to the groove (the piercing cannot rest on the groove). Overall length is measured from face to face.

9. Labret (round or oval) with a standard concave t-back. Wearing length is measured from where the wearing shaft meets the wing to the end of the flat portion (the piercing cannot rest on the slope).

Overall length is always longer than the wearing surface because it includes other sections of the jewelry that do not rest inside the piercing. If you are ordering a piece of jewerly and you specify an overall length instead of a wearing length, your jewelry will not fit properly. Order using "overall length" at your own risk. Knowing your ideal wearing length, which can change as you stretch your piercings, ensures you're able to order jewelry that will fit well from every vendor, every time.